How to Use a Retinoid: A Step-by-Step Guide
What Is a Retinoid, Exactly?
A retinoid is a vitamin A derivative that speeds up cell turnover, unclogs pores, boosts collagen, and fades pigmentation. It’s the multitasker of skincare- treating acne, softening fine lines, and giving dull skin a serious glow-up.
There are two main types:
Prescription retinoids (like tretinoin, adapalene, or Altreno)
Over-the-counter retinols (we’ll get to these in a second)
Retinoid vs Retinol: What's the Difference?
Here’s the quick tea:
| Retinoid | Retinol |
|---|---|
| Stronger, faster results | Gentler, but takes longer |
| Prescription only (mostly) | Available OTC |
| Converts directly to retinoic acid | Needs to convert in skin, which lowers potency |
| More likely to cause irritation | Better for sensitive skin beginners |
TL;DR: If your skin can handle it (and your derm gives the green light), a retinoid is your power player. If you’re brand new to vitamin A, you may want to start with a retinol or a low-strength adapalene.
How to Use a Retinoid Without Irritating Your Face Off
Here’s your step-by-step plan with dermatologist tips at every turn. Whether you're using tretinoin, adapalene, or a brand like Altreno, this guide has you covered.
Step 1: Cleanse Gently
Use a non-stripping cleanser like CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser to prep the skin. Your goal is a clean, calm canvas- not tight, squeaky skin.
Step 2: Pat Dry and Wait
Retinoids absorb best on dry skin. Wait at least 10–15 minutes after washing before applying your retinoid. This helps reduce irritation.
Derm Tip: Damp skin = deeper penetration = more potential for peeling. Be patient here.
Step 3: Sandwich If You’re Sensitive
If your skin is reactive or you're new to retinoids, apply a light layer of moisturizer before your retinoid. This technique,called the “retinoid sandwich”, buffers the product.
Try:
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair (matte, for oily skin)
Avene Tolerance (minimalist, for sensitive skin)
Step 4: Apply a Pea-Sized Amount
Literally a pea-sized amount. Dot it on your forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin, then gently blend. Avoid the corners of the nose, lips, and eyes (unless specifically instructed by your derm).
Step 5: Moisturize Again
Seal it in with a nourishing moisturizer. For ultra-dry nights, consider slugging with CeraVe Healing Ointment (yes, even over your retinoid—it works).
How Often Should You Use a Retinoid?
Start 2–3 nights per week. As your skin acclimates, build up to every other night, then nightly if tolerated.
| Week | Frequency |
|---|---|
| 1–2 | 2x/week |
| 3–4 | 3x/week |
| 5+ | Alternate nights or nightly |
What About Purging?
Yes, purging is a thing. You may notice more breakouts for the first 2–6 weeks. This is your skin pushing out congestion. Stick with it (unless you're having burning or swelling in which case you should stop and call your derm).
Bonus Tips for Retinoid Success
Always wear SPF 30+ in the morning. Retinoids make you more sun-sensitive.
Avoid benzoyl peroxide and AHAs/BHAs on the same night, unless advised.
Final Word: Is a Retinoid Worth It?
In one word? Absolutely. With consistent use (and patience), retinoids improve skin texture, tone, fine lines, and acne. They’re one of the most science-backed ingredients in dermatology and one of my personal favorites.
If you're unsure where to start or need a prescription tailored to your skin, head to a board-certified derm (hi 👋) or check out my Skincare Routine Concierge Service.