The GOAT: Topical Minoxidil (Rogaine)

Hi everyone! I hope you had an amazing summer. I’m thrilled to be back to regularly scheduled programming here at The Amaranthine Collective, and today we’re talking about topical minoxidil.

This little over-the-counter solution (literally) has been a game-changer for so many of my patients, but there’s a lot of confusion around how it works, who should use it, and what to expect. Let’s clear that up.

How Minoxidil Actually Works

Minoxidil is a topical vasodilator, meaning it helps increase blood flow to the scalp. But that’s only part of the story. On a follicular level, it shortens the resting (telogen) phase of the hair cycle and prolongs the growth (anagen) phase. Translation: more hairs are actively growing at once.

It works best for conditions that cause miniaturization of hair follicles, like:

• Androgenetic alopecia (aka male and female pattern hair loss)

• Telogen effluvium (stress shedding- though you’ll need patience)

• Eyebrow thinning (yes, you can use it here too with one of those cutesy little spoolies)

Best Practices for Using Minoxidil

Consistency is key with minoxidil. You will not see results until about the 4-month mark. Think of it as very long-term prescription for your follicles.

• Men: Use it twice daily on the scalp

• Women: Once daily is usually enough

• My favorite formulation: The 5% foam (always men’s). It’s less greasy, easier to apply, and less irritating than the liquid version

  • 🛒 Get the foam on Amazon here (affiliate link)

Side Effects & What’s Normal

Minoxidil is generally safe, but a few side effects are common:

• Mild scalp irritation (more common with the liquid form)

• Unwanted facial hair growth (if it drips down the sides of your face)

• Initial shedding

That first-month shedding happens because the follicles are being “shocked” into a new growth cycle. The old, miniaturized hairs are shed to make way for stronger, thicker hairs. Stick with it, please! This phase usually passes in 4–8 weeks.

Topical vs. Oral Minoxidil

Yes, oral minoxidil is trending right now, and I even wrote a deep-dive on it here.

But here’s the deal: studies have shown that topical minoxidil can be just as effective as oral minoxidil for many people, without the systemic side effects. So if you’re needle-phobic, pill-averse, or just want to start with something simple, topical is a great place to begin.

The Bottom Line

Topical minoxidil is an evidence-based, dermatologist-approved way to boost hair growth, whether you’re battling pattern hair loss, postpartum shedding, or just want to fill out your brows. Be consistent, expect some shedding early on, and give it at least 6 months before you judge your results.

I’d love to hear your experience with minoxidil! Have you tried the foam, liquid, or even oral version? Share in the comments below- let’s compare notes.